Amesbury

Amesbury is the nearest town to Stonehenge, and was itself once a key part of the Stonehenge landscape. The River Avon, which formed part of the processional way between Durrington Walls and Stonehenge, flows through the town and was a focus for many of the elaborate Bronze Age burials in the area, as high-status people claimed a place in this most revered landscape.

Many of these graves are now lost forever under housing estates and gardens. Those which have been excavated give an inkling of the once richness of this area.

Merlin and Vortigern.

Pseudo-historian Geoffrey of Monmouth claimed that Stonehenge was built by Merlin, wizard, sorcerer or shaman. In another legend, Merlin advised the British leader Vortigern, who was building a castle on the site, that its continual collapse was due to two dragons who were buried beneath the site.

This legend, often thought to be invented by Geoffrey, may have an older origin. Amesbury derives from ‘Emrys’s burgh’ or settlement, and Emrys was a title commonly applied to Merlin. Amesbury, therefore, was known from Saxon times as ‘Merlin’s settlement’. Perhaps the ancient legend has a grain of truth.

The river at Ratfyn

The Avon runs through a steep gorge near Ratfyn, the northern part of Amesbury, and a series of square structures, comprising four wooden posts around five metres high, have been discovered. They may have been huge wooden platforms used for the exposure of bodies to be devoured by kites and crows before they were cremated. Pits nearby contain the bones of cattle, pig and dogs, perhaps the remains of funeral feasts.

The cliff top, hidden by the trees of the gorge.

The Amesbury Archer is the town’s most famous discovery. The adult man, who died between 2500-2280BC, had lived in the Stonehenge area but had spent his childhood in the Alps or Bavaria. He had then made the arduous journey of over a thousand miles to Britain. Genetic analysis shows his son was also buried nearby.

The man was buried with twelve arrows, two archer’s wrist-guards, five beakers, three copper daggers, a metalworking anvil and a pair of gold earrings or hair ornaments, making it one of the richest burials found in the area. His importance was immense. Perhaps he was one of the first people who travelled to Britain, bringing the new skills of metal-working which would eventually overturn Britain’s infrastructure in every way. Thousand-year-old monuments were sealed up, new ones were built, and a new spiritual way of life redefined people’s lives even as their practical lives changed forever. Perhaps this man was the instigator of it all.

The Amesbury Archer

The Bulford Stone

The Bulford Stone is another former standing stone which formed part of the vast Stonehenge ritual landscape. Like the Cuckoo Stone, it is a glacial erratic which was raised in its natural location, and like the Cuckoo Stone it has survived through chance. It has long fallen and was until recently believed to be a natural erratic, until excavation revealed its true importance.

The Bulford Stone is around two miles from Woodhenge and the Cuckoo Stone, which are visible to the west, and intriguingly is on the same alignment as these sites and the Stonehenge Cursus discussed last week. It seems this alignment of natural features stretches far further than was once thought.

The Bulford Stone, looking towards Woodhenge

Around the standing stone, which was raised at an unclear date, was once a Bronze Age round barrow which was positioned to incorporate the stone. The barrow contained three burials dating to 1900BC-1750BC.

They included an intriguing array of grave goods, including flint knives, arrows and antler tools for flaking flint; a piece of Cotswold limestone shaped very much like one of the Stonehenge sarsens, perhaps representing a microcosm of the stones’ spiritual power; a boar’s tusk pendant; and a piece of rock crystal which may have come from the Alps. These unique finds suggest high-status burials, perhaps of shamans. Rock crystal is commonly used for divination, healing and other spiritual purposes. Other high-status burials nearby, such as the Amesbury Archer, had come from the Alps region, an arduous journey 4000 years ago and one which conveyed considerable prestige.

The Bulford Stone, looking east towards Beacon Hill

While the Cuckoo Stone stands in rough grassland, the Bulford Stone is in the middle of an agricultural field, and for hundreds of years farmers and machinery have had to dodge around it. Most large boulders which were in the way were simply removed, the reason for the huge loss of standing stones over the past few centuries. Why did the Bulford Stone, until recently believed to be a natural erratic with no significance, not suffer the same fate? Perhaps the spirits of the shamans who were buried at its foot continue to guard their ancient ward.