The Ring of
Brodgar in Orkney is one of the largest stone circles in Britain. It sits on a
narrow peninsula between the two vast Lochs of Harray and Stenness, a balance
point between land, sea and air. The waters, usually turbulent with the wind
and reflecting the grey, scudding clouds which race from the nearby sea,
eventually touch the hills which frame this panoramic scene, and reinforce the
impression that this peninsula is the centre of Orkney’s landscape. It has been
described as a natural amphitheatre, and it is easy to imagine dozens of people
on the hilltops, looking down at this stone circle and watching rites whose
effects would ripple out to touch them all.
The Ring is
flanked by the nearby The Stones of Stenness to the south, possibly the oldest
stone circle in Britain, and the Ring of Bookan to the north, a possible henge
now all but destroyed. Its two entrances focus on these sites.
It has been
suggested that the layout of the three monuments reflect the three stars of
Orion’s Belt. It is a convincing match, and may explain why the Ring of Brodgar
is slightly off-centre on the sloping hillside, but my feeling is too much
effort is made to link sacred sites to the stars. Most seem to me to be
orientated to and blended with the surrounding landscape, which enhances the
idea that they reflect a spiritual microcosm of the land where rites could be
conducted to influence that land.
The Brodgar
stones originate from various sites across Orkney, creating the evocative image
of a blending of communities and their spirits into a single monument in the
heart of the land. The circle is 104m in diameter and comprised sixty stones,
of which thirty six remain, surrounded by a six-metre wide ditch. It was built
around 2500BC, shortly before the collapse of Orkney’s highly advanced
Neolithic culture. It was perhaps a last attempt to save it, or a lasting
memorial to its existence.
The Comet
Stone, an outlier of the Ring of Brodgar. Two other broken stones lie nearby.
Legend says the stone was a piper, turned to stone along with the dancing
giants.
Like many
stone circles, legend states the Ring of Brodgar was formed when a group of
dancing giants were turned to stone after failing to notice the approaching
sunrise. I wonder if these stories reflect their former use for shamanic or
ritual dances.
The two stone
circles were known to locals as the Temples of the Sun and the Moon, and
betrothed couples once prayed inside them to Woden to seal their relationship.
This is likely a relic of Orkney’s Nordic heritage, and continued almost to
living memory.
The Ring of
Brodgar was built to guide the Orkney people’s lives. People have long
memories. Five thousand years later, that spirit still survives.
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